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Filtering by Tag: Khumbu

The Road Home: Andrew Reflects on Everest Journey

user

See below for Andrew's final dispatch describing his trek down from Mt. Everest Base Camp, through damaged villages and finally back to the United States.On behalf of Andrew and the entire YFU community, a sincere thank you for your support of Andrew and our mission to advance intercultural understanding, mutual respect and social responsibility through educational exchanges for youth, families and communities.

Above: Saying goodbye to Everest Base Camp

Here’s the brief update:

  • On Wednesday (5/6) I arrived safely in Philadelphia.
  • Last Wednesday (4/29), we departed Everest Base Camp.
  • Walking down the Khumbu Valley and through the streets of Nepal revealed even more devastation than we had seen at Base Camp.  Luckily, we were able to spend two days helping Sherpa in the village of Phortse with their reconstruction efforts.
  • Thanks to all who made this expedition and my safe return possible, particularly Scheels Sports, Casual Adventure, Happy Harry’s and Ag Warehouse for their generous donations to YFU.  May our desire to understand and support diverse communities around the world never wane.

Above: The Sherpa village of Phortse, where we spent two days helping community members rebuildevacuated from IMG Camp

Here’s the longer update:

Last Tuesday, our expedition prepared to depart as planned. Wednesday brought good hiking weather, so we descended ~14 miles and 3,000’ to the village of Pheriche.  On our way down the valley, we camped (rather than stay in Sherpa teahouses) due to the widespread structural damage caused by the earthquake.  In Pheriche I finally felt safe, and I slept harder than I had for many days.

House

On Thursday we moved down to the village of Phortse.  We had heard that there was a 1,000+ person line at the tiny Khumbu airstrip at Lukla, and rather than rush down the Valley to join the queue, we figured it made more sense to stop in the hometown of many of our Sherpa team members to see if we could be of use.  For two days, we helped community members demolish damaged structures, so that they would have a foundation for reconstruction.  It felt wonderful to be able to help, and by the time we left, there were multiple families who insisted that there was nothing more that we could do until they got carpenters and electricians in.

Above: Earthquake damage in the Khumbu Valley

Sunday we slept in Namche Bazaar (~12,000’), and on Monday we hiked ~12 miles down to the Lukla air strip at ~9,000’.    The paths / roads were desolate compared to our hike in.  Gone were the tourists, trekkers, and yak trains bearing Western luggage.  The half dozen or so trekkers we did see over the 5 day descent seemed very out of place. Earthquake damage was everywhere.  The worst hit buildings seemed to be the older ones, which usually had rounder stones held together by less sophisticated mortar.  We saw far less damage in newer buildings, in which the masonry seemed much tighter.  Our morale was high, but folks seemed to be thinking increasingly about home.  By the time we landed in Katmandu early Tuesday morning, people headed straight for showers, shaves and beds.  We knew that it would be more difficult for us to plug into relief efforts in Katmandu than it was in the rural villages, and so many of us flew out soon after arriving in the capital.  I left just 6 hours after I arrived, and I was on a flight with dozens of Polish and British search and rescue specialists.  They told me that the initial crisis had passed and that they were leaving because the next task—restoring water and power to neighborhoods that had lost it—was in the government’s hand.  I was disheartened to learn that the government had created some bottlenecks by attempting to tax donated relief supplies and by demanding that all supplies go through a slow customs process before they get to the people, but I was encouraged to learn how many international crisis responders had made it to Katmandu within the first twelve hours after the earthquake.  The death toll continues to climb, but it seems that the worst has passed.

Above: Earthquake damage in Katmandu; the first floor of this building gave way

On Wednesday morning, I was positively beaming as I watched the patriotic video on loop above the US Immigration Desk at Philadelphia Airport, and I told the Customs Officer I had never been so happy to pass through international arrivals. When he found out where I had been and what I had been doing, he thanked me for doing what I could to help out.  I told him that I thought he—and many others—would have done the same thing.  If he had seen someone struggling in the cold in a dangerous environment, I bet he would have looked for a blanket or sleeping bag to help the person cover him or herself.  If he had seen a place with more injured people than medical professionals, I bet he would have tried to help people adjust their positions or fix their bandages.  And if he had seen a dining room with blood-spattered walls, I bet he would have tried to help clean it before people used it again.  None of it was rocket science, after all, and the necessity of action was clear.  The only thing it took was being able to ask myself what I would hope someone else would do if I was the one suffering. This is something I have been trying to do ever since my exchange year from Grand Forks Central High School over to Germany at age 16, and it is something I hope more and more young people will learn to do through Youth For Understanding and its peers.  And that is why I am so grateful to all of you for supporting YFU—particularly Scheels Sports, Casual Adventure, Happy Harry’s, and Ag Warehouse—the principle supporters of YFU on behalf of this expedition.

Thank you again.

Sincerely, Andrew Towne

Read all of Andrew's blog updates from his Everest trip:

The Road Home: Andrew Reflects on Everest Journey

user

See below for Andrew's final dispatch describing his trek down from Mt. Everest Base Camp, through damaged villages and finally back to the United States.On behalf of Andrew and the entire YFU community, a sincere thank you for your support of Andrew and our mission to advance intercultural understanding, mutual respect and social responsibility through educational exchanges for youth, families and communities.

Above: Saying goodbye to Everest Base Camp

Here’s the brief update:

  • On Wednesday (5/6) I arrived safely in Philadelphia.
  • Last Wednesday (4/29), we departed Everest Base Camp.
  • Walking down the Khumbu Valley and through the streets of Nepal revealed even more devastation than we had seen at Base Camp.  Luckily, we were able to spend two days helping Sherpa in the village of Phortse with their reconstruction efforts.
  • Thanks to all who made this expedition and my safe return possible, particularly Scheels Sports, Casual Adventure, Happy Harry’s and Ag Warehouse for their generous donations to YFU.  May our desire to understand and support diverse communities around the world never wane.

Above: The Sherpa village of Phortse, where we spent two days helping community members rebuildevacuated from IMG Camp

Here’s the longer update:

Last Tuesday, our expedition prepared to depart as planned. Wednesday brought good hiking weather, so we descended ~14 miles and 3,000’ to the village of Pheriche.  On our way down the valley, we camped (rather than stay in Sherpa teahouses) due to the widespread structural damage caused by the earthquake.  In Pheriche I finally felt safe, and I slept harder than I had for many days.

House

On Thursday we moved down to the village of Phortse.  We had heard that there was a 1,000+ person line at the tiny Khumbu airstrip at Lukla, and rather than rush down the Valley to join the queue, we figured it made more sense to stop in the hometown of many of our Sherpa team members to see if we could be of use.  For two days, we helped community members demolish damaged structures, so that they would have a foundation for reconstruction.  It felt wonderful to be able to help, and by the time we left, there were multiple families who insisted that there was nothing more that we could do until they got carpenters and electricians in.

Above: Earthquake damage in the Khumbu Valley

Sunday we slept in Namche Bazaar (~12,000’), and on Monday we hiked ~12 miles down to the Lukla air strip at ~9,000’.    The paths / roads were desolate compared to our hike in.  Gone were the tourists, trekkers, and yak trains bearing Western luggage.  The half dozen or so trekkers we did see over the 5 day descent seemed very out of place. Earthquake damage was everywhere.  The worst hit buildings seemed to be the older ones, which usually had rounder stones held together by less sophisticated mortar.  We saw far less damage in newer buildings, in which the masonry seemed much tighter.  Our morale was high, but folks seemed to be thinking increasingly about home.  By the time we landed in Katmandu early Tuesday morning, people headed straight for showers, shaves and beds.  We knew that it would be more difficult for us to plug into relief efforts in Katmandu than it was in the rural villages, and so many of us flew out soon after arriving in the capital.  I left just 6 hours after I arrived, and I was on a flight with dozens of Polish and British search and rescue specialists.  They told me that the initial crisis had passed and that they were leaving because the next task—restoring water and power to neighborhoods that had lost it—was in the government’s hand.  I was disheartened to learn that the government had created some bottlenecks by attempting to tax donated relief supplies and by demanding that all supplies go through a slow customs process before they get to the people, but I was encouraged to learn how many international crisis responders had made it to Katmandu within the first twelve hours after the earthquake.  The death toll continues to climb, but it seems that the worst has passed.

Above: Earthquake damage in Katmandu; the first floor of this building gave way

On Wednesday morning, I was positively beaming as I watched the patriotic video on loop above the US Immigration Desk at Philadelphia Airport, and I told the Customs Officer I had never been so happy to pass through international arrivals. When he found out where I had been and what I had been doing, he thanked me for doing what I could to help out.  I told him that I thought he—and many others—would have done the same thing.  If he had seen someone struggling in the cold in a dangerous environment, I bet he would have looked for a blanket or sleeping bag to help the person cover him or herself.  If he had seen a place with more injured people than medical professionals, I bet he would have tried to help people adjust their positions or fix their bandages.  And if he had seen a dining room with blood-spattered walls, I bet he would have tried to help clean it before people used it again.  None of it was rocket science, after all, and the necessity of action was clear.  The only thing it took was being able to ask myself what I would hope someone else would do if I was the one suffering. This is something I have been trying to do ever since my exchange year from Grand Forks Central High School over to Germany at age 16, and it is something I hope more and more young people will learn to do through Youth For Understanding and its peers.  And that is why I am so grateful to all of you for supporting YFU—particularly Scheels Sports, Casual Adventure, Happy Harry’s, and Ag Warehouse—the principle supporters of YFU on behalf of this expedition.

Thank you again.

Sincerely, Andrew Towne

 

Read all of Andrew's blog updates from his Everest trip:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Update from Everest Base Camp

user

Our deepest sympathies go out to the people of Nepal. A powerful earthquake of magnitude 7.9 hit Nepal, causing mass devastation and loss of life. We are relieved to report Andrew Towne, YFU Alumnus to Germany and a member of the YFU USA Board of Trustees, who was climbing Mt. Everest to raise funds for YFU, is safe and healthy. -------------------------------

andrew update

We received the following email from Gary Towne, Andrew's father, after a 45 minute phone conversation he had with Andrew on Sunday.

Update from Gary Towne

Andrew is well and uninjured, has spent the last 36 hours without sleep, helping to find and care for the injured and helping with MedEvac. All of the severely injured have now been evacuated by helicopter. Several dozen people remain at Camps 1 (20,000 ft.) and 2 (21,000 ft.). It seems that these climbers experienced fewer if any injuries, none serious, but the situation is still not yet completely clear. Present concern is to determine the best way to help these people down the mountain. The altitude is near the limit for helicopters, so only 2 or 3 climbers can be evacuated on each trip. On the other hand, the ropes and ladders through the Khumbu Icefall (through which they must pass if descending on foot) have mostly been destroyed. Setting these ladders and ropes takes a large team of Sherpas at the beginning of each climbing season. There may not be that many left on the mountain; and, in any case, it appears that the icefall is very unstable, continuing to collapse, and is unsafe at this time.

Andrew stressed that the tragedy is profound—for the Sherpa community in every village of the Khumbu valley and elsewhere, as well as the entire nation of Nepal—the worst natural disaster to afflict the country in historical memory. At the same time, he clarified that this year’s avalanche had a very different effect from last year’s. The 2014 avalanche affected only Sherpas, who were rigging the ropes and ladders, and who face much greater risks than visiting climbers. Each climbing season, a Sherpa may make 30 or more trips through the treacherous Khumbu Icefall, one of the most dangerous parts of the climb, because they do the rigging and repairing as described above as well as guiding the groups of visiting climbers. Each visiting climber, however, traverses the Icefall only about 6 times—it is part of altitude acclimatization hikes as well as the final push to the summit.

This year’s (2015) avalanche was more diffuse in its effect. Not only was the total number of casualties substantially greater (exact figure not yet known), but the spread of those injured was indiscriminate. Both Sherpas and visiting climbers were killed or injured. Observers on site seem to agree that the source, location and path of this year’s avalanche were unprecedented and could not have been anticipated. The Khumbu valley ends in a cirque (French, or cwm, Welsh), a semicircular valley ground out of the mountain’s base by the root of a glacier. Last year’s avalanche fell from the east side of the cirque. This year’s avalanche fell mainly from an ice cliff in the saddle of Pumo Ri (and perhaps some other slopes) on the north and west. The falling masses of snow and rocks created a huge aerosol avalanche and accompanying air blast that came together at the bottom, and, blasting out through the most direct path, hit the upper part of Everest BC and blew many tents across the Khumbu Glacier towards the lower Icefall. (Adapted from the International Mountain Guide (IMG) web blog.) Most observers Andrew has spoken to feel that, in normal conditions, without the violent earthquake that dislodged the ice cliff, this avalanche would not have occurred.

Chance, Fortune, or Providence played a major role in which parts of the camp were most affected.  Some areas seem to have escaped nearly entirely due to positions farther from the Khumbu glacier or under a protective ridge. Andrew’s tent was only 100 meters (1 football field) from the edge of the devastation. 200 meters from his tent was squarely in the middle of the worst hit area. Even in severely hit areas, deaths were unpredictable. According to one report, a boulder crashed through a tent, drove a climber through the tent’s side and crushed him, while leaving two companions still in the tent relatively unscathed. For more frequent updates and an official perspective see the IMG blog.

Plans for the future are unclear. In the short term, the situation is still evolving, and safety of the greatest number is the highest goal. Priorities include the evacuation of the teams at the higher mountain camps and the continuing search for those who may be still buried. (UPDATE: as of Monday morning Nepal time, reports suggest that Camp I and Camp II have been safely evacuated to lower elevations, thanks to some of the world's best helicopter pilots flying 50+ sorties.)

Whether teams remaining on the mountain will be able to finish their climb and reach the summit has not been determined. Whether Everest climbs will be closed for the remainder of this season or even further into the future is also not determined. The Sherpa people, upon whom all such expeditions depend, have suffered profoundly, and the full extent of the effect on them is not yet known. Their dedication, faithfulness, fortitude and well-being must be remembered in any consideration of Himalayan climbing. The income they derive from guiding is a very important support for them, their families and communities, but we cannot forget that they put their lives on the line to earn it, as Saturday’s tragedy so clearly shows. (UPDATE: IMG has officially ended its expedition up Mt. Everest, due to the devastation of the Khumbu Valley and its impact on our Sherpa team members, the destruction of the route through the Khumbu icefall, and the continued risk of aftershocks and further avalanches. We are mourning the deceased, praying for the injured, and focusing on a safe descent of those at base camp.)

Andrew sent his deepest thanks for expressions of concern, support and prayers. He also wanted to make several points. His Everest attempt has been a benefit in support of Youth for Understanding (YFU), an old and highly respected international exchange program with which Andrew went to Germany in his high school junior year and of which he is now a board member. He is paying his own way; all money contributed goes to YFU. In addition to many individual contributions, Andrew also received major corporate support as YFU Partners from Ag Warehouse of Finley, ND, Happy Harry’s Bottle Shops & Scheels Sporting Goods of Grand Forks, ND, and Casual Adventure Outfitters of Arlington, VA. Whether or not he is able to complete his climb, he feels an obligation to acknowledge their generous support.

It is still possible to contribute to YFU. Bill Harwood, Grand Forks and UND graduate now retired from the State Department (and incidentally once stationed in Kathmandu), said of YFU, “When I worked for USIA, YFU was a major grantee organization. It had started back in the Eisenhower days, as I recall. During the next 50 years they got major contributions from corporations like Toyota. . . . Then [there was a] falling off of federal and private donations . . .” YFU remains a very worthy and venerable organization for fostering international understanding, worthy of generous support.

That is also very true of the aid efforts for the Sherpas and Nepal in general. For anyone who wishes to contribute to the Sherpas, Support For Sherpas, a British group, seems to be responding to that specific need, while Mercy Corpsand Global Giving, both American groups, have opened efforts for all of Nepal. I’m sure there are others, but these were some I could find on short notice. All three have easy-to-navigate donation methods.

After such an extended update, I expect that I will be winding down pending further major developments. If you wish frequent updates, check the IMG blog.

Thank you for all of your expressions of concern, Gary Towne

See related article in Grand Forks Herald.

and finally—

A moment of levity in a picture not all of you may have gotten—the yak with Andrew's gear ascending a "street" in Namche Bazaar.

yak

April 22, 2015 Update Prior to Earthquake

First, Andrew's father corrects the record...

"Thanks for Andrew's update. I reread the article in The Lightand thought I'd correct a minor error.  Andrew's FIRST summit was Mount Mansfield, Vermont's highest peak, at the age of 6 in 1988, just before we left Vermont for North Dakota.  He is at the left in the picture. His brother Jonathan, 8, is on the right."

Andrew and brother

Andrew's update!

Here’s the brief update:

  • On April 14, we arrived at Everest Base Camp (~17,500’)
  • We descended back down the valley to acclimatize at about 19,900’ on Lobuche Peak on April 19.
  • We returned to base camp two days ago and are getting ready for our first venture into the Khumbu icefall on the 23rd.
  • Our team is strong and morale is high.  We were fortunate to receive Buddhist ‘puja’ blessings both at base camp and in Pangboche village with Lama Geshi, the spiritual leader of the Khumbu Valley.

19,900 feet, just below the summit of Lobuche with the summit of Ama Dablam dominating the horizon.

Here’s the longer update:

In the last two weeks, we finished the trek to the head of the Khumbu Valley--Everest Base Camp (~17,500’). Along the way, we visited Lama Geshi in Pangboche for a Buddhist puja blessing. Lama Geshi fled Tibet during the Chinese takeover and is considered the region’s spiritual leader. Before blessing our climb, Lama Geshi had an audience with a woman from a neighboring village, and seeing how significant it was to her to be able to meet with him made us even more grateful for his time. Lama Geshi encouraged us to “Give up all intentions to harm others from our heart and do our best to benefit them all. If each and everyone of us feels the Universal Responsibility to do so, we will all enjoy the feast of peace!” At 83 years old, Lama Geshi was spry and obviously delighted in everything he did, saw and felt. It was clear that he was at peace with us and his surroundings, and our team left with a larger worldview and sense of purpose.

From Pangboche, we ascended past the tree line and spent a few nights in the town of Pheriche, ~14,500’. We climbed nearby ridges during the days and enjoyed sampa cake and yak stew in the evenings. I read The Boys in the Boat during our downtime, which brought back a flood of fond memories of college rowing.

After camping for a few nights ~16,000’, we finished our trek to base camp. Located on the NW edge of the Khumbu Glacier, Everest base camp is a series of camps stretching out about half a mile. In the picture below of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse, base camp is on the outside ridge of the curving glacier at the base of the icefall. Camps generally draw water from the west side of the moraine and use the east side of the moraine as the path for accessing other camps and the Khumbu icefall, which leads up into the Western Cwm that separates Everest from Nuptse. IMG’s camp is fantastic.  Our summit team includes ~24 climbers, 8 guides, and about 50 Sherpa guides, porters, cooks and camp managers. Our tents occupy the high ground along the ridges of the moraine and at the center we have dining tents, a common tent with internet and electricity, and a large Buddhist altar for pujas and prayer flags.

We spent two nights taking in base camp before hiking back down the valley to Lobuche Peak (20,128’), which we ascended to within a couple hundred feet of the true summit to help us acclimatize. The views from the summit ridge were incredible—we could see four 8,000m peaks (Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse and Makalu) as well as the shorter but equally famous peak Ama Dablam.

By the time we got back to Everest base camp two days ago, we were beginning to feel much more comfortable living at these high altitudes. Yesterday, our expedition had a large puja blessing ceremony at base camp, during which we each received a sundi necklace for good luck during our climb. The ceremony was similar to the one we attended with Lama Geshi, but longer, larger and more involved. What struck me most was how genuinely happy all the Sherpa seemed to be during the ceremony. The part where we each got flour painted on our faces to symbolize our hope that we may all live long enough to grow a white beard quickly turned into a game of tag, with Sherpas delighting in smearing the flour quickly and profusely on those who least expected it. And the traditional Sherpa dance at the end of the ceremony lasted almost 45 minutes, as more and more Sherpas suggested additional songs and even invited westerners to sing and dance alongside top 40 music blaring from two small portable speakers. I left the puja with the realization that joy is a choice—it is a state of mind that we can embrace and accept where and how we want. Our Sherpas very much chose for the puja to be a joyous, fun occasion, and their energy infected all of us. I hope that as I climb the mountain and eventually return to the States, that I too will be able to choose joy and contentment as easily and regularly as our teammates do here.

Over the next three weeks, we will be moving up and down Mt. Everest in rotations—climbing and sleeping higher on each rotation than we did on the previous one. Between rotations, we will rest and recover at base camp, and on our third rotation we will attempt the summit. The mountain looms over 2 vertical miles above us right now, but by focusing on health, nutrition, and taking one small step at a time, I think we will make the most of this opportunity. I reflect regularly on the lessons I’ve learned from so many of you, and climbing, joking and becoming acquainted with the Sherpa make me continually proud to be taking this mountain on as a way to advance intercultural exchange for teenagers.

Sincerely, Andrew Towne

Update from Everest Base Camp

user

Our deepest sympathies go out to the people of Nepal. A powerful earthquake of magnitude 7.9 hit Nepal, causing mass devastation and loss of life. We are relieved to report Andrew Towne, YFU Alumnus to Germany and a member of the YFU USA Board of Trustees, who was climbing Mt. Everest to raise funds for YFU, is safe and healthy. -------------------------------

andrew update

We received the following email from Gary Towne, Andrew's father, after a 45 minute phone conversation he had with Andrew on Sunday.

Update from Gary Towne

Andrew is well and uninjured, has spent the last 36 hours without sleep, helping to find and care for the injured and helping with MedEvac. All of the severely injured have now been evacuated by helicopter. Several dozen people remain at Camps 1 (20,000 ft.) and 2 (21,000 ft.). It seems that these climbers experienced fewer if any injuries, none serious, but the situation is still not yet completely clear. Present concern is to determine the best way to help these people down the mountain. The altitude is near the limit for helicopters, so only 2 or 3 climbers can be evacuated on each trip. On the other hand, the ropes and ladders through the Khumbu Icefall (through which they must pass if descending on foot) have mostly been destroyed. Setting these ladders and ropes takes a large team of Sherpas at the beginning of each climbing season. There may not be that many left on the mountain; and, in any case, it appears that the icefall is very unstable, continuing to collapse, and is unsafe at this time.

Andrew stressed that the tragedy is profound—for the Sherpa community in every village of the Khumbu valley and elsewhere, as well as the entire nation of Nepal—the worst natural disaster to afflict the country in historical memory. At the same time, he clarified that this year’s avalanche had a very different effect from last year’s. The 2014 avalanche affected only Sherpas, who were rigging the ropes and ladders, and who face much greater risks than visiting climbers. Each climbing season, a Sherpa may make 30 or more trips through the treacherous Khumbu Icefall, one of the most dangerous parts of the climb, because they do the rigging and repairing as described above as well as guiding the groups of visiting climbers. Each visiting climber, however, traverses the Icefall only about 6 times—it is part of altitude acclimatization hikes as well as the final push to the summit.

This year’s (2015) avalanche was more diffuse in its effect. Not only was the total number of casualties substantially greater (exact figure not yet known), but the spread of those injured was indiscriminate. Both Sherpas and visiting climbers were killed or injured. Observers on site seem to agree that the source, location and path of this year’s avalanche were unprecedented and could not have been anticipated. The Khumbu valley ends in a cirque (French, or cwm, Welsh), a semicircular valley ground out of the mountain’s base by the root of a glacier. Last year’s avalanche fell from the east side of the cirque. This year’s avalanche fell mainly from an ice cliff in the saddle of Pumo Ri (and perhaps some other slopes) on the north and west. The falling masses of snow and rocks created a huge aerosol avalanche and accompanying air blast that came together at the bottom, and, blasting out through the most direct path, hit the upper part of Everest BC and blew many tents across the Khumbu Glacier towards the lower Icefall. (Adapted from the International Mountain Guide (IMG) web blog.) Most observers Andrew has spoken to feel that, in normal conditions, without the violent earthquake that dislodged the ice cliff, this avalanche would not have occurred.

Chance, Fortune, or Providence played a major role in which parts of the camp were most affected.  Some areas seem to have escaped nearly entirely due to positions farther from the Khumbu glacier or under a protective ridge. Andrew’s tent was only 100 meters (1 football field) from the edge of the devastation. 200 meters from his tent was squarely in the middle of the worst hit area. Even in severely hit areas, deaths were unpredictable. According to one report, a boulder crashed through a tent, drove a climber through the tent’s side and crushed him, while leaving two companions still in the tent relatively unscathed. For more frequent updates and an official perspective see the IMG blog.

Plans for the future are unclear. In the short term, the situation is still evolving, and safety of the greatest number is the highest goal. Priorities include the evacuation of the teams at the higher mountain camps and the continuing search for those who may be still buried. (UPDATE: as of Monday morning Nepal time, reports suggest that Camp I and Camp II have been safely evacuated to lower elevations, thanks to some of the world's best helicopter pilots flying 50+ sorties.)

Whether teams remaining on the mountain will be able to finish their climb and reach the summit has not been determined. Whether Everest climbs will be closed for the remainder of this season or even further into the future is also not determined. The Sherpa people, upon whom all such expeditions depend, have suffered profoundly, and the full extent of the effect on them is not yet known. Their dedication, faithfulness, fortitude and well-being must be remembered in any consideration of Himalayan climbing. The income they derive from guiding is a very important support for them, their families and communities, but we cannot forget that they put their lives on the line to earn it, as Saturday’s tragedy so clearly shows. (UPDATE: IMG has officially ended its expedition up Mt. Everest, due to the devastation of the Khumbu Valley and its impact on our Sherpa team members, the destruction of the route through the Khumbu icefall, and the continued risk of aftershocks and further avalanches. We are mourning the deceased, praying for the injured, and focusing on a safe descent of those at base camp.)

Andrew sent his deepest thanks for expressions of concern, support and prayers. He also wanted to make several points. His Everest attempt has been a benefit in support of Youth for Understanding (YFU), an old and highly respected international exchange program with which Andrew went to Germany in his high school junior year and of which he is now a board member. He is paying his own way; all money contributed goes to YFU. In addition to many individual contributions, Andrew also received major corporate support as YFU Partners from Ag Warehouse of Finley, ND, Happy Harry’s Bottle Shops & Scheels Sporting Goods of Grand Forks, ND, and Casual Adventure Outfitters of Arlington, VA. Whether or not he is able to complete his climb, he feels an obligation to acknowledge their generous support.

It is still possible to contribute to YFU. Bill Harwood, Grand Forks and UND graduate now retired from the State Department (and incidentally once stationed in Kathmandu), said of YFU, “When I worked for USIA, YFU was a major grantee organization. It had started back in the Eisenhower days, as I recall. During the next 50 years they got major contributions from corporations like Toyota. . . . Then [there was a] falling off of federal and private donations . . .” YFU remains a very worthy and venerable organization for fostering international understanding, worthy of generous support.

That is also very true of the aid efforts for the Sherpas and Nepal in general. For anyone who wishes to contribute to the Sherpas, Support For Sherpas, a British group, seems to be responding to that specific need, while Mercy Corps and Global Giving, both American groups, have opened efforts for all of Nepal. I’m sure there are others, but these were some I could find on short notice. All three have easy-to-navigate donation methods.

After such an extended update, I expect that I will be winding down pending further major developments. If you wish frequent updates, check the IMG blog.

Thank you for all of your expressions of concern, Gary Towne

See related article in Grand Forks Herald.

and finally—

A moment of levity in a picture not all of you may have gotten—the yak with Andrew's gear ascending a "street" in Namche Bazaar.

yak

April 22, 2015 Update Prior to Earthquake

First, Andrew's father corrects the record...

"Thanks for Andrew's update. I reread the article in The Light and thought I'd correct a minor error.  Andrew's FIRST summit was Mount Mansfield, Vermont's highest peak, at the age of 6 in 1988, just before we left Vermont for North Dakota.  He is at the left in the picture. His brother Jonathan, 8, is on the right."

Andrew and brother

Andrew's update!

Here’s the brief update:

  • On April 14, we arrived at Everest Base Camp (~17,500’)
  • We descended back down the valley to acclimatize at about 19,900’ on Lobuche Peak on April 19.
  • We returned to base camp two days ago and are getting ready for our first venture into the Khumbu icefall on the 23rd.
  • Our team is strong and morale is high.  We were fortunate to receive Buddhist ‘puja’ blessings both at base camp and in Pangboche village with Lama Geshi, the spiritual leader of the Khumbu Valley.

19,900 feet, just below the summit of Lobuche with the summit of Ama Dablam dominating the horizon.

Here’s the longer update:

In the last two weeks, we finished the trek to the head of the Khumbu Valley--Everest Base Camp (~17,500’). Along the way, we visited Lama Geshi in Pangboche for a Buddhist puja blessing. Lama Geshi fled Tibet during the Chinese takeover and is considered the region’s spiritual leader. Before blessing our climb, Lama Geshi had an audience with a woman from a neighboring village, and seeing how significant it was to her to be able to meet with him made us even more grateful for his time. Lama Geshi encouraged us to “Give up all intentions to harm others from our heart and do our best to benefit them all. If each and everyone of us feels the Universal Responsibility to do so, we will all enjoy the feast of peace!” At 83 years old, Lama Geshi was spry and obviously delighted in everything he did, saw and felt. It was clear that he was at peace with us and his surroundings, and our team left with a larger worldview and sense of purpose.

From Pangboche, we ascended past the tree line and spent a few nights in the town of Pheriche, ~14,500’. We climbed nearby ridges during the days and enjoyed sampa cake and yak stew in the evenings. I read The Boys in the Boat during our downtime, which brought back a flood of fond memories of college rowing.

After camping for a few nights ~16,000’, we finished our trek to base camp. Located on the NW edge of the Khumbu Glacier, Everest base camp is a series of camps stretching out about half a mile. In the picture below of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse, base camp is on the outside ridge of the curving glacier at the base of the icefall. Camps generally draw water from the west side of the moraine and use the east side of the moraine as the path for accessing other camps and the Khumbu icefall, which leads up into the Western Cwm that separates Everest from Nuptse. IMG’s camp is fantastic.  Our summit team includes ~24 climbers, 8 guides, and about 50 Sherpa guides, porters, cooks and camp managers. Our tents occupy the high ground along the ridges of the moraine and at the center we have dining tents, a common tent with internet and electricity, and a large Buddhist altar for pujas and prayer flags.

We spent two nights taking in base camp before hiking back down the valley to Lobuche Peak (20,128’), which we ascended to within a couple hundred feet of the true summit to help us acclimatize. The views from the summit ridge were incredible—we could see four 8,000m peaks (Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse and Makalu) as well as the shorter but equally famous peak Ama Dablam.

By the time we got back to Everest base camp two days ago, we were beginning to feel much more comfortable living at these high altitudes. Yesterday, our expedition had a large puja blessing ceremony at base camp, during which we each received a sundi necklace for good luck during our climb. The ceremony was similar to the one we attended with Lama Geshi, but longer, larger and more involved. What struck me most was how genuinely happy all the Sherpa seemed to be during the ceremony. The part where we each got flour painted on our faces to symbolize our hope that we may all live long enough to grow a white beard quickly turned into a game of tag, with Sherpas delighting in smearing the flour quickly and profusely on those who least expected it. And the traditional Sherpa dance at the end of the ceremony lasted almost 45 minutes, as more and more Sherpas suggested additional songs and even invited westerners to sing and dance alongside top 40 music blaring from two small portable speakers. I left the puja with the realization that joy is a choice—it is a state of mind that we can embrace and accept where and how we want. Our Sherpas very much chose for the puja to be a joyous, fun occasion, and their energy infected all of us. I hope that as I climb the mountain and eventually return to the States, that I too will be able to choose joy and contentment as easily and regularly as our teammates do here.

Over the next three weeks, we will be moving up and down Mt. Everest in rotations—climbing and sleeping higher on each rotation than we did on the previous one. Between rotations, we will rest and recover at base camp, and on our third rotation we will attempt the summit. The mountain looms over 2 vertical miles above us right now, but by focusing on health, nutrition, and taking one small step at a time, I think we will make the most of this opportunity. I reflect regularly on the lessons I’ve learned from so many of you, and climbing, joking and becoming acquainted with the Sherpa make me continually proud to be taking this mountain on as a way to advance intercultural exchange for teenagers.

Sincerely, Andrew Towne

Greetings from the Khumbu!

user

andrew update

First update from Andrew Towne from The Khumbu Valley who is climbing Mt. Everest to raise money for YFU. Click here to read more about how Andrew became interested in climbing the world's tallest peaks

Dear Friends,

Here's the brief update:

  • We are five days into the trek to Everest base camp, acclimatizing well and enjoying good weather.
  • The Khumbu Valley and its Sherpa people are inspiring.  I've never seen such magnificent mountains and such kind, balanced, and strong people.

Here's the longer update:

It's hard to believe that I've already been in Nepal for a week. We spent our first day in Kathmandu, organizing our gear and visiting the ancient Boudhanath stupa. The next morning, we flew to Lukla, which at 9,300' is at the base of the Khumbu Valley and the head of the ~30 mile trail to Everest base camp. The airport is perched half way up the mountain, with the tail of the runway hanging off a cliff and the head of the runway going directly into the side of a mountain. They say that if the 2,000' of runway isn't enough for a plane to takeoff, pilots just glide over the edge of the cliff and hope to catch an updraft before hitting the valley floor half a mile below. We met the team of Sherpas that is helping us climb the mountain, and after getting our yak caravan organized, we walked a few miles down the trail to Phakding for the night.

On our third day we climbed to Namche Bazaar (11,286'), which is the trading center of the Khumbu Valley. I was amazed to see digital camera dealers and Mountain Hardware outfitters in a place where yaks always have the right of way. Day four took us up to Khumjung village (12,000') and our first view of Mt. Everest. On day five we moved up to Tengboche Monastery--the oldest monastery in the Khumbu, Tengboche served as base camp for Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary's first ascent in 1953. One of the staff at the lodge was a teenager at the time and described to us their intrepid siege of the mountain. Today we climbed a short ridge to aid our acclimatization before attending a Buddhist meditation session at the monastery.

The entire region is incredible; I think because of its people. The Sherpa migrated to the Khumbu from Tibet between 300-600 years ago and make their home in the shadows of the world's tallest peaks. Renowned for their strength and mountaineering prowess, most Sherpa are Buddhist, which may contribute to their tolerance of so many Westerners who lack their mountain skills. The valleys are so steep that "roads" in the Khumbu are hand made trails in valleys and along mountain sides, all shared by humans, yaks and wild animals. I have a great deal of respect for the work it must take to survive at these altitudes, and I am impressed by how global the community is. Many have studied abroad and speak a foreign language. I am proud to be climbing for Youth For Understanding, so that more cultures can learn to view the world through others' eyes.

All in all, the expedition could not be off to a better start. There are 5 others on the trip who will attempt the summit, plus an additional 11 who are just trekking to base camp. We've been enjoying each other's company and playing games / comparing notes on the mountain. When I write again in a week or two, we should be at base camp!

Sincerely, Andrew

Support alumnus Andrew Towne as he attempts to summit Mt. Everest to promote intercultural exchange and raise scholarship funds for YFU!

Andrew holds up a YFU flag atop Carstensz Pyramid, the tallest mountain on the continent of Oceania; July 2011.

Greetings from the Khumbu!

user

First update from Andrew Towne from The Khumbu Valley who is climbing Mt. Everest to raise money for YFU. Click here to read more about how Andrew became interested in climbing the world's tallest peaksandrew update

Dear Friends,

Here's the brief update:

  • We are five days into the trek to Everest base camp, acclimatizing well and enjoying good weather.
  • The Khumbu Valley and its Sherpa people are inspiring.  I've never seen such magnificent mountains and such kind, balanced, and strong people.

Here's the longer update:

It's hard to believe that I've already been in Nepal for a week. We spent our first day in Kathmandu, organizing our gear and visiting the ancient Boudhanath stupa. The next morning, we flew to Lukla, which at 9,300' is at the base of the Khumbu Valley and the head of the ~30 mile trail to Everest base camp. The airport is perched half way up the mountain, with the tail of the runway hanging off a cliff and the head of the runway going directly into the side of a mountain. They say that if the 2,000' of runway isn't enough for a plane to takeoff, pilots just glide over the edge of the cliff and hope to catch an updraft before hitting the valley floor half a mile below. We met the team of Sherpas that is helping us climb the mountain, and after getting our yak caravan organized, we walked a few miles down the trail to Phakding for the night.

On our third day we climbed to Namche Bazaar (11,286'), which is the trading center of the Khumbu Valley. I was amazed to see digital camera dealers and Mountain Hardware outfitters in a place where yaks always have the right of way. Day four took us up to Khumjung village (12,000') and our first view of Mt. Everest. On day five we moved up to Tengboche Monastery--the oldest monastery in the Khumbu, Tengboche served as base camp for Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary's first ascent in 1953. One of the staff at the lodge was a teenager at the time and described to us their intrepid siege of the mountain. Today we climbed a short ridge to aid our acclimatization before attending a Buddhist meditation session at the monastery.

The entire region is incredible; I think because of its people. The Sherpa migrated to the Khumbu from Tibet between 300-600 years ago and make their home in the shadows of the world's tallest peaks. Renowned for their strength and mountaineering prowess, most Sherpa are Buddhist, which may contribute to their tolerance of so many Westerners who lack their mountain skills. The valleys are so steep that "roads" in the Khumbu are hand made trails in valleys and along mountain sides, all shared by humans, yaks and wild animals. I have a great deal of respect for the work it must take to survive at these altitudes, and I am impressed by how global the community is. Many have studied abroad and speak a foreign language. I am proud to be climbing for Youth For Understanding, so that more cultures can learn to view the world through others' eyes.

All in all, the expedition could not be off to a better start. There are 5 others on the trip who will attempt the summit, plus an additional 11 who are just trekking to base camp. We've been enjoying each other's company and playing games / comparing notes on the mountain. When I write again in a week or two, we should be at base camp!

Sincerely, Andrew

Support alumnus Andrew Towne as he attempts to summit Mt. Everest to promote intercultural exchange and raise scholarship funds for YFU!

Andrew holds up a YFU flag atop Carstensz Pyramid, the tallest mountain on the continent of Oceania; July 2011.